The London art of cookery, and housekeepers' complete assistant, on a new plan: Made plain and easy to the understanding of every housekeeper, cook, and ... a bill of fare for every month in the year
- Steep stale bread in boiling water and pass through a fine sieve while hot. It may be flavored and taken alone, or mixed and boiled with milk.
- Take a large bread roll, pare off the crust thinly, slice, and lightly toast the crumbs. Cover with 1 quart of water (40 fluid oz), and boil gently till it becomes almost clear and will set on a cold plate. Flavour with a little cinnamon stick or thin yellow rind of lemon. The jelly should be sprinkled with sugar and served with cream in a saucer. It may also be reheated, with milk or wine as a drink. From Dorothy Hartley’s book 'Food in England'.
Food in England
Put a blade of mace, a large piece of the crumb of bread, and a quart of water, into a clean saucepan. Let it boil two minutes, then take out the bread , and bruise it very fine in a bason. Mix as much water as it will require, pour away the rest, and sweeten it to the palate. Put in a piece of butter as big as a walnut, but do not put in any wine , as that will spoil it. Grate in a little nutmeg.
That one is sweet, a different proposition to the savoury Italian dish.
Mrs Rundell gives four recipes:
1. set a little water on the fire with a glass of white wine, some sugar and a scrape of nutmeg and lemon peel; meanwhile grate some crumbs of bread. The moment the mixture boils up, keeping it still on the fire, put the crumbs in and let it boil as fast as it can. When of a proper thickness just to drink, take it off.
2. make as above but instead of a glass of wine put in a tea-spoonful of rum and a bit of butter; sugar as above. This is a most pleasant mess [well it may not be pleasant but at least when you’ve drunk it you don’t care any more SJW]
3. put to the water a bit of lemon-peel, mix the crumbs in, and when nearly boiled enough put some lemon or orange syrup. Observe to boil all the ingredients; for if any be added after, the panada will break and not jelly.
4. chicken panada boil it til about three parts ready in a quart of water, take off the skin, cut the white meat off when cold and put into a marble mortar; pound it to a paste with a little of the water it was boiled in, season with a little salt, a grate of nutmeg and the least bit of lemon peel. Boil gently for a few minutes to the consistency you like; it should be such as you can drink though tolerably thick. This conveys great nourishment in small compass [if the patient doesn’t get salmonella poisoning for not cooking the chicken all through and then letting it cool and reheating; mind you there was no salmonella then as chickens weren't fed dead ground up chickens as our ancestors would have thought this too gross]
We have no clue which recipe Heyer intended Miss Beccles to be feeding to Nicky; and one might argue either that she pandered to a boy’s sweet tooth or that she went by the traditional concept that men needed meat. I’m inclined to think that the recipe was one from Mrs Rundell whence I have also the recipe for another of Heyer’s favourites, Dr Ratcliffe’s restorative pork jelly, without a jar of which Francis Cheviot never stirred and which Frederica thought might do Felix some good.
Set a quart of water on the fire in a clean saucepan, and as much dry crust of bread cut to pieces as the top of a penny loaf, the drier the better, with a bit of butter as big as a walnut. Let it boil, then beat it with a spoon, and keep boiling it, till the bread and water are well mixed. Then season it with a very little salt, and it will be very agreeable to a weak stomach.
And just for Mr Woodhouse, from the same book:
Put a large spoonful of oatmeal into a pint of water, stir it well together, and let it boil three or four times, stirring it often. Then strain it through a sieve, salt it to the palate, and put in a large piece of fresh butter. Brew it with a spoon till the butter is all melted, and it will be then fine and smooth.
All that salt and butter would horrify a modern nutritionist but at least must have made it tastier…on the whole I’d be inclined to soak the oatmeal first, boil water and pour onto it and then put the whole lot back to come slowly to the boil, same as with milk porridge but there you are. I’d also be adding honey not salt and butter.